George Town is a place with ghosts. For our four-day stay that turned into a week we rented a room in a hundred year old shophouse in the heritage district. Once providing shelter for, reputedly, over seventy immigrant workers at once, the shophouse now provided shelter for the two of us and our Chinese-Malay-Brunei AirBnB…
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In Kuala Lumpur, the best malls are the worst malls. New malls are largely cavernous, too-brightly lit spaces made of glass and faux marble with endless floors connected by a labyrinth of escalators that look as though they were conceived by Escher. As soon as these new malls open, all sparkly and new and yet…
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As in Singapore, our first night in Kuala Lumpur is spent in a thunderstorm. British storms begin like a growl in the back of the throat and grow into a little tantrum of rain. More often than not the sky tires of its noise and activity and gives up after half an hour, leaving behind…
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‘Why the hell are you staying all the way out there?’ the taxi driver demanded in a thick Indian-Malay accent. We just looked at each other and shrugged. We didn’t have an answer. After a bus ride that took almost three hours longer than it should have, with rain pouring in through a broken…
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